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Marseilles
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SIZES XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Bust: 35 (39, 42, 45, 49, 52, 54)"/89 (99, 106.5, 114.5, 124.5, 134.5, 137) cm Length: 24 (24 1/2, 24 1/2, 25, 25, 26, 26 1/2)"/61 (62, 62, 63.5, 63.5, 66, 67.5) cm, not including collar
GAUGE In Fsc or sc, using larger hook, 13 sts = 4"/10cm and 7 rows = 2"/5cm; In sc-mesh, using larger hook, 7 repeats (ch 1, sc) and 14 rows = 4"/10cm. Note: Gauge is "as crocheted". Fabric will become slightly narrower in width and will stretch considerably in length, to approximately 12 rows = 4"/10cm when blocked and hung. In braid pattern, using smaller hook, 6 rows = 4"/10cm. STITCHES USED Chain (ch), double crochet (dc), reverse single crochet (rev sc), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (sl st).
SPECIAL TERMS Fsc: Foundation single crochet (This technique creates a foundation chain and a row of single crochet stitches in one) –
V-st: V-stitch—(Sc, ch 1, sc) in indicated ch-1 sp. DV-st: Double V-stitch—Sc in indicated ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in same ch-1 sp] 3 times.
PATTERN STITCH To Work Even Patt A: Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across to last 2 sc, ch 1, sk next sc, sc in last sc, turn. Patt B: Ch 1, sc in first sc, (DO NOT ch 1), sc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * across to last sc, (DO NOT ch 1), sc in last sc, turn. To Increase at each end of a row (for neck shaping) Patt C: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 1, sc in first ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * across to last sc, ch 1, sc in last sc, turn. To Increase (for yoke shaping) V-st Corner: Begin row as instructed, [work in pattern stitch to next corner ch-1 sp, ch 1, V-st in corner ch-sp] 4 times, end row as instructed—adds 4 mesh repeats to row. DV-st Corner: Begin row as instructed, [work in pattern to next corner ch-1 sp, ch 1, DV-st in corner ch-1 sp] 4 times, end row as instructed—adds 8 mesh repeats to row.
INSTRUCTIONS Yoke Note: In this section, you will make increases at four corners of the yoke, mark the ch-1 sp at the center of each of the four DV-st or V-st corners, move markers up, as you go, into the center ch-1 sp each time. At the same time, increase at both ends to shape front neck. With A and larger hook, Fsc 33 (33, 33, 33, 37, 37, 37). Turn foundation over so sc edge is on top, begin work across sc edge. Row 1: Ch 1, DV-st in first sc for beginning corner, [ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next sc] 2 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) times, ch 1, sk next sc, DV-st in next sc for corner, [ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next sc] 9 (11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13) times, ch 1, sk next sc, DV-st in next sc for corner, [ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next sc] 2 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1) times, ch 1, sk next sc, DV-st in last sc for corner, turn—29 (29, 29, 29, 31, 31, 31) sc. Size XS only Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, V-st in next corner ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 5 times, ch 1, V-st in next corner ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 12 times, ch 1, V-st in next corner ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 5 times, ch 1, V-st in next corner ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in last sc, turn—34 sc. Row 3: Work Patt C, with V-st Corner increases—39 sc. Rows 4–10: Repeat Row 3 seven more times—74 sc. Place a marker at each end of Row 10 for collar placement. Row 11: Work Patt B. Row 12: Work Patt A. Row 13: Work Patt B, with V-st Corner increases—79 sc. Row 14: Work Patt A. Row 15: Work Patt B. Row 16: Work Patt A, with V-st Corner increases—82 sc. Rows 17–24: Repeat Rows 11–16 once, then Rows 11 and 12 once more—90 sc. Size S only Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, DV-st in next corner ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 4 times, ch 1, DV-st in next corner ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 14 times, ch 1, DV-st in next corner ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 4 times, ch 1, DV-st in next corner ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in last sc, turn—42 sc. Row 3: Work Patt C, with V-st Corner increases—47 sc Rows 4–9: Repeat Row 3 six more times—77 sc. Rows 10 and 11: Work Patt C, working even across corners—79 sc. Row 12: Work Patt C, with V-st Corner increases—84 sc. Place a marker at each end of Row 12 for collar placement. Rows 13–26: Repeat Size XS Rows 11–16 twice, then repeat Size XS Rows 11 and 12 once more—100 sc. Size M only Rows 2 and 3: Work same as Size S Rows 2 and 3—47 sc. Rows 4–12: Repeat Row 3 nine more times—92 sc. Place a marker at each end of Row 12 for collar placement. Rows 13–26: Work same as Size S Rows 13–26—108 sc. Size L only Rows 2–12: Work same as Size M Rows 2–12—92 sc. Place a marker at each end of Row 12 for collar placement. Row 13: Work Patt B, with V-st Corner increases—97 sc. Row 14: Work Patt A, with V-st Corner increases—100 sc. Rows 15–28: Work same as Size S Rows 13–26—116 sc. Size 1X only Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, DV-st in next corner ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 4 times, ch 1, DV-st in next corner ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 16 times, ch 1, DV-st in next corner ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 4 times, ch 1, DV-st in next corner ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in last sc, turn—44 sc. Row 3: Work Patt C, with DV-st Corner increases—57 sc. Row 4: Work Patt C, with V-st Corner increases—62 sc. Rows 5–14: Repeat Row 4 ten more times—112 sc. Place a marker at each end of Row 14 for collar placement. Rows 15–28: Work same as Size S Rows 13–26—128 sc. Size 2X only Rows 2–14: Work same as Size 1X Rows 2–14—112 sc. Place a marker at each end of Row 14 for collar placement. Row 15: Work Patt B, with V-st Corner increases—117 sc. Row 16: Work Patt A, with V-st Corner increases—120 sc. Row 17–30: Work same as Size S Rows 13–26—136 sc. Size 3X only Rows 2–16: Work same as Size 2X Rows 2–16—120 sc. Rows 17 and 18: Work same as Size 2X Rows 15 and 16—128 sc. Rows 19–32: Work same as Size S Rows 13–26—144 sc. Body All Sizes Note: In this section you will connect fronts and back with additional foundation stitches at each underarm, joining into a continuous row. Row 1 (join body, WS): Begin as Patt B, *work in pattern stitch to next corner ch-1 sp, sc in corner ch-1 sp, ch 1, Fsc 9 (9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 11) for underarm, sk next 19 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30) sc, sc in next corner ch-1 sp; repeat from * once more, continue in pattern stitch, end as Patt B. Row 2: Begin as Patt A, *work in pattern stitch to ch-1 sp before next underarm foundation, ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk last sc before foundation, sc in first sc of foundation, [ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next sc] 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times, ch 1, sk next sc past foundation, sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * once more, continue in pattern stitch, end as Patt A—62 (70, 74, 80, 88, 92, 96) sc. Row 3: Work Patt B—63 (71, 75, 81, 89, 93, 97) sc. Note: Now you will begin body shaping with increases at six points evenly spaced across next row, mark the ch-1 sp at the center of each V-st, move markers up into the sc or ch-1 sp as you go. Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first sc, [ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp] 7 (9, 8, 9, 10, 10, 9) times, *ch 1, sk next sc, V-st in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14) times; repeat from * 4 more times, ch 1, sk next sc, V-st in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp] 7 (8, 8, 8, 10, 9, 9) times, ch 1, sk next sc, sc in last sc, turn—68 (76, 80, 86, 94, 98, 102) sc. Rows 5–16: Work Patt B, then [work Patt A, work Patt B] 5 times, then work Patt A once more. Row 17: Begin as Patt B, [work in pattern stitch to next marked ch-1 sp, ch 1, V-st in ch-1 sp] 6 times, work in pattern stitch to end, ending as Patt B—75 (83, 87, 93, 101, 105, 109) sc. Rows 18–29: [Work Patt A, work Patt B] 6 times. Row 30: Begin as Patt A, [work in pattern stitch to next marked ch-1 sp, ch 1, V-st in ch-1 sp] 6 times, work in pattern stitch to end, ending as Patt A—80 (88, 92, 98, 106, 110, 114) sc. Rows 31–43: Work Patt B, then [work Patt A, work Patt B] 6 times. Fasten off. Tip: Lengthen or shorten jacket body here by adding or omitting rows even in pattern stitch, end by working a WS Patt B row and fasten off. Front Band Turn, RS now facing, move to lower right-hand corner, join yarn with sl st in first sc row edge. Note: In this section you will work sc evenly across entire front edge of jacket. Move up markers at front neck (ends of Yoke Row 10 (12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14)) as you go. Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in same first sc row edge, sc in each sc row edge up right-hand front to neck foundation, sk row edge of Fsc, sc in each ch of foundation, sk row edge of Fsc, sc in each sc row edge down left-hand front, turn. Rows 2 and 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn. Temporarily fasten off last loop, do not cut yarn (remove hook from loop and place loop on a safety pin or stitch marker, if desired). Make collar before returning to this loop for edging. Collar Note: In this section you will make a short row collar across back neck, from marker to marker. WS of last edging row now facing, join new yarn with sl st in marked sc at left-hand front neck. Row 1 (WS): Sk same marked sc, sc in next 36 (38, 38, 38, 42, 42, 42) sc, sl st in next sc, turn—36 (38, 38, 38, 42, 42, 42) sc. Row 2: Sk sl st, sc in next 21 (21, 21, 21, 25, 25, 25) sc, sl st in next sc, turn—21 (21, 21, 21, 25, 25, 25) sc. Row 3: Sk sl st, sc in next 26 (26, 26, 26, 30, 30, 30) sc, sc in sc with sl st join, sc in next 4 sc, sl st in next sc, turn—31 (31, 31, 31, 35, 35, 35) sc. Row 4: Sk sl st, sc in next 31 (31, 31, 31, 35, 35, 35) sc, sc in sc with sl st join, sc in next 4 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6) sc, sl st in next sc, turn—36 (36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 42) sc. Row 5: Sk sl st, sc in next 36 (36, 36, 36, 42, 42, 42) sc, sc in sc with sl st join, sc in next 4 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6) sc, sl st in next sc, turn—41 (41, 41, 41, 49, 49, 49) sc. Row 6: Sk sl st, sc in next 41 (41, 41, 41, 49, 49, 49) sc, sc in sc with sl st join, sc in next 4 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sc, sl st in next sc at right-hand front marker, turn—46 (48, 48, 48, 56, 56, 56) sc. Row 7: Sk sl st, sc in next 46 (48, 48, 48, 56, 56, 56) sc, sc in sc with sl st join, sc in next 4 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) sc, sl st in same sc as beginning at left-hand front marker—51 (55, 55, 55, 63, 63, 63) sc with sl st at each end. Fasten off. Edging With RS facing, return to last loop of edging at lower left-hand front. Edging Rnd (RS): Moving in reverse direction (left to right if right-handed, right to left if left-handed), ch 1, rev sc in first sc, [ch 1, sk next sc, rev sc in next sc] up left-hand front, across collar, down right-hand front, end with rev sc in last sc of front band. Rotate to work across lower edge, ch 1, sk first sc row edge of front band, rev sc in next sc row edge, ch 1, sk next sc row edge, rev sc in first ch-1 sp of lower edge, [ch 1, rev sc in next ch-1 sp] across lower edge, end with rev sc in last ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next sc row edge of front band, rev sc in next sc row edge, ch 1, sk next sc row edge; end with sl st in base of beginning rev sc. Fasten off. Sleeves With WS facing, at one underarm foundation, join yarn with sl st in 5th (5th, 5th, 7th, 7th, 7th, 7th) ch of foundation. Rnd 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in same ch, [ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch] 2 times, sk first sc of armhole, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp of armhole] 18 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29) times, ch 1, sk last sc of armhole, sc in next ch of foundation, [ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next ch] 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, ch 1, sk remaining ch; end with sl st in beginning sc, turn—23 (24, 26, 29, 31, 33, 35) sc. Rnds 2–46: *Ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, ch 1; end with sl st in beginning sc, turn. Tip: Lengthen or shorten sleeves here by adding or omitting rounds, end by working a RS round. Sizes S (M) only Rnds 47–49: Work 3 more rounds even—24 (26) sc. Sizes XS (L, 1X, 1X, 3X) only Rnd 47: *Ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, do not ch 1; end with sl st in beginning sc, turn. Rnd 48: Ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, ch 1; end with sl st in beginning sc, turn. Rnd 49: Work one rnd even—22 (28, 30, 32, 34) sc. Edging After last round, turn, continue with rev sc-ch 1 edging, as follows: Edging (RS): Moving in reverse direction, *ch 1, rev sc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, ch 1; end with sl st in base of beginning rev sc. Fasten off. Make sleeve around other armhole in same way. Finishing Weave in ends and block jacket to measurements before attaching braid trim. Trim Note: Three lengths of braid (one long for jacket neck edge and two short for sleeves) are crocheted separately, then attached by threading a string in and out of the holes in braid and fabric of jacket. Tip: You may find you need more rows in the braids and chains in the strings, so temporarily fasten off each piece, leaving a tail a couple of yards long, so you can adjust the length later. Braid (make 3) Row 1: With B and smaller hook, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, dc) in 3rd ch from hook, turn. Row 2: Ch 2, (2 dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, turn. For body braid, repeat Row 2 for a total of 76 (78, 78, 80, 80, 82, 84) rows. For sleeve braid, repeat Row 2 for a total of 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) rows. Strings (make 3) With A and smaller hook, begin with slip knot, ch for length required, as follows: Multiply number of rows in body braid by 5. Then work a ch of this length (i.e. ch 5 for each row of body braid). Fasten off. Multiply number of rows in sleeve braids by 5. Then work two strings of this length. Fasten off. Attaching Braids Body With RS of jacket facing, begin assembly at lower right-hand corner of front. You may pin the braid to the jacket neck edge first before threading the string, but this is not critical. The body braid follows the inner edge of Row 1 of the sc body band. Take the beginning end of the body braid, match the first ch-1 hole of braid with ch-1 sp at the end of Row 43 (43, 43, 43, 42, 42, 42) of body, sk next row of body, match next ch-1 hole of braid with ch-1 sp at the end of next row of body, and so on, matching braid holes to every other row of right-hand front up to the back neck. At the back neck, sk 2 (2, 2, 2, 0, 0, 0) Fsc, match braid hole with next Fsc, [sk next 3 Fsc, match braid hole with next Fsc] 7 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9) times, sk remaining 2 (2, 2, 2, 0, 0, 0) Fsc, match next braid hole with ch-1 sp at the end of Yoke Row 1. Match holes down left-hand front same as other front. Thread the beginning tail of the body string onto a large, blunt yarn needle. Insert the needle from back to front through the matched first holes, thread from front to back through the next matched holes, thread from back to front through the next matched holes, and so on. Just like sewing, pull the string up and adjust the tension as you go, keeping stitches even and loose. If needed, add more rows of braid or chains to the pieces in order to reach the end. Fasten off and use tails to tack ends of braid and string to jacket front. Sleeves Thread sleeve string onto yarn needle. Beginning at underside of sleeve, hold sleeve braid along lower edge of sleeve, matching braid holes with every other ch-1 sp of Rnd 48 of sleeve (two rows from edging), sew in and out of holes, adjusting braid rows or chains as needed. Fasten off, use tails to tack ends of braid and chain to sleeve. Attach braid to other sleeve in same way. Weave ends. Lightly steam braid trim if desired.
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