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Portland Jacket
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SIZES Small (Medium, Large, X-Large)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS Beginning of Sleeve Shaping (buttoned) 36 (40, 44, 48)" /91.5 (101.5, 112, 122) cm Length 20 (20 1/2, 21, 21 1/2)" /51 (52, 53.5, 54.5) cm
GAUGE In Body Pattern (Cables and Garter st), 20 sts and 26 rows = 4"/10 cm Note: See Helpful below.
ABBREVIATIONS C6B: Slip 3 sts to cn, hold to back, k3, k3 from cn. C6F: Slip 3 sts to cn, hold to front, k3, k3 from cn.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUE (optional) 3-Needle Bind Off (Joining 2 pieces together as you bind off.) Place the stitches of the pieces to be joined on separate needles, (or each end of a circular needle), held one behind the other with right-sides facing each other, in left hand; with a third needle, (the same size or 1 size largerthan used for knitting the pieces), k2tog [1 from the front needle, 1 from the back needle—1 stitch on right-hand needle], * K2tog [2 stitches on right-hand needle], bind off 1 stitch in usual manner; repeat from * to end.
STITCHES USED Garter stitch (Garter st): Knit all sts every row. Stockinette stitch (St st): Knit on RS, purl on WS. C6B / C6F Cable Panel(s)(panel of 14 sts) Also see Charts Row 1 and all RS rows through 19: Knit all sts. Row 2 and all WS rows: K4 (Garter st), p6 (Cable), k4 (Garter st). Rows 21, 25, 29 – Right Back and Left Front: K4, C4B, k4. Rows 21, 25, 29 – Left Back and Right Front: K4, C4F, k4. Row 30: Repeat Row 2. Repeat Rows 1 – 30 for Cable panel(s).
HELPFUL Cast on 25 sts. Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: Work Row 2 of C4B Cable panel across 14 sts, p1 (keep in St st), k10 (Garter st). Cont as established until piece measures 5" from beg, end with a WS row. Bind off all sts.
BACK Cast on 90 (100, 110, 120) sts. Establish Pattern: Row 1 and all RS rows through 19: Knit. Row 2 and all WS rows: Work [14-st Cable panel, p1 (keep in St st)] twice across first 30 sts; k30 (40, 50, 60) sts for center Back (keep in Garter st); work [p1 (keep in St st), 14-st Cable panel] twice across remaining 30 sts. Rows 21, 25, and 29 (RS): Work [C4B Cable panel, k1] twice across 30 sts; k30 (40, 50, 60); work [k1, C4F Cable panel] twice across remaining 30 sts. Row 30: Repeat Row 2. Continuing as established, work even until piece measures 5" from beginning, end with a WS row. Shape Sleeves (RS) Working all increased sts in Cable panels separated by one st in St st as established, cast on 5 sts at beg of the next 6 rows—120 (130, 140, 150) sts. (RS) Inc 1 st each side every other row 20 times—160 (170, 180, 190) sts. Work even until piece measures 20 (20 1/2, 21, 21 1/2)" from beginning, end with a RS row. Bind off all sts loosely in pattern; or (optional) place 65 (69, 73, 77) sts each side on separate holders for shoulders; place center 30 (32, 34, 36) sts on a third holder for neck.
LEFT FRONT Cast on 60 (65, 70, 75) sts. Establish Pattern: Row 1 and all RS rows through 19: Knit. Row 2 and all WS rows: K30 (35, 40, 45) for center Front (keep in Garter st); work [p1 (keep in St st), 14-st Cable panel] twice across remaining 30 sts. Rows 21, 25, and 29 (RS): Work [C4B Cable panel, k1] twice, K30 (35, 40, 45). Row 30: Repeat Row 2. Continuing as established, work even until piece measures 5" from beginning, end with a WS row.
Shape Sleeves (RS) Working all increased sts in Cable panels separated by one st in St st as established, cast on 5 sts at armhole edge (beg of RS rows), every other row 3 times—75 (80, 85, 90) sts. (RS) Inc 1 st at armhole edge every other row 20 times—95 (100, 105, 110) sts. Work even until piece measures 17 (17 1/2, 18, 18 1/2)" from beginning, end with a RS row.
Shape Neck (WS) Knit across first24 (25, 26, 27) sts; place on holder for center Front neck; work to end. Work 1 row even. (WS) At neck edge, bind off 3 sts once, 2 sts once, then dec 1 st once—65 (69, 73, 77) sts remain for shoulder. Work even until piece measures 20 (20 1/2, 21, 21 1/2)" from beginning, end with a WS row. Shape Shoulders Bind off all sts loosely in pattern; or (optional) place 65 (69, 73, 77) sts on holder.
Mark for Buttons Place markers for 2 buttons, approximately 1" in from each edge on center Front Garter st section; first set 1 1/2" above lower edge, second set 6 1/2" above the first, last set 6 1/2" above the second.RIGHT FRONT Cast on 60 (65, 70, 75) sts. Establish Pattern: Row 1 and all RS rows through 19: Knit. Row 2 and all WS rows: Work [14-st Cable panel, p1] twice, K30 (35, 40, 45) for center Front (keep in Garter st). Rows 21, 25, and 29 (RS): K30 (35, 40, 45), work [k1, C4F Cable panel] twice across remaining 30 sts. Row 30: Repeat Row 2. Continuing as established, work even until piece measures 1 1/2" from beginning, end with a WS row. Buttonholes: (RS) K3, bind off 3 sts for buttonhole; k17 (22, 27, 32) center sts; bind off 3 sts for buttonhole; work to end as established. (WS) Work across, cast on 3 sts over bound off sts. Work remaining 2 sets of buttonholes opposite markers as you come to them. Continuing as established, work even until piece measures 5" from beginning, end with a RS row Shape Sleeves (WS) Working all increased sts in Cable panels separated by one st in St st as established, cast on 5 sts at armhole edge (end of RS rows, beginning of WS rows), every other row 3 times—75 (80, 85, 90) sts. (WS) Inc 1 st at armhole edge every other row 20 times—95 (100, 105, 110) sts. Work even until piece measures 17 (17 1/2, 18, 18 1/2)" from beginning, end with a RS row. Shape Neck and Shoulders (WS) Work across to last 24 (25, 26, 27) sts; place remaining sts on holder for neck. At neck edge (beginning of RS rows), complete neck shaping and at armhole edge, shape shoulders as for left Front.
FINISHING Sew shoulder seams (if sts were bound off), or join shoulders using 3-Needle bind off method. Sew side and Sleeve seams. Collar With RS facing, k24 (25, 26, 27) sts from right Front holder; pick up and knit 20 sts up right Front neck shaping to shoulder; k30 (32, 34, 36) sts from Back neck holder; pick up and knit 20 sts down left Front neck shaping to holder; k24 (25, 26, 27) sts from left Front holder—118 (122, 126, 130) sts. Begin Garter st; work even until Collar measures 8" from pick-up row, end with a WS row. Bind off all sts loosely. Using yarn needle, weave in all ends. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.
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